UV Filters Chart: Sunscreen Active Ingredients
Explanation of the different types of sunscreen UV filters |
Ever wonder what you’re putting on your skin when you apply sunscreen? Or why all sunscreens seem to break you out? Or whether your sunscreen is photostable? If so, then it’s time you become a sunscreen sleuth!
Similar to how analyzing ingredients lists, say for a moisturizer, will help you learn more about the product, analyzing sunscreen ingredient lists can tell you how your sunscreen is protecting you, what UV filters and active agents are being used, and whether or not they are photostable.
However, looking at a sunscreen’s ingredient list can be very confusing because a lot of sunscreen actives are listed as long chemical compounds. So, here’s a handy sunscreen ingredient chart I’ve made of the different types of sunscreen UV filters (physical and chemical actives along with some inactives), other names they go by, their range of protection, how they function, and any other precautions you should be aware of:
| Active | Range* | Max % | Function | Comments | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PHYSICAL FILTERS (Inorganic Sunscreen Filters) |
Zinc Oxide (ZnO) Other Names: - CI 77947 - Nogenol - Pigment white 4 - Zinc gelatin |
UVB, UVA1, UVA2 | 25% | Absorbs and blocks UVA and UVB rays and therefore is considered “broad-spectrum” | Photostable; Less likely to cause irritation; Responsible for a sunscreen’s “white cast”; FDA approved. For information about zinc oxide nanoparticles, check here. |
| Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) Other Names: - CI Pigment white 6 - Titanium peroxide - CI 77891 - Pigment white 6 |
UVB, UVA2 | 25% | Reflects and blocks UVA and UVB rays, however, it doesn’t protect against the whole range of UVA rays. | Photostable; Less likely to cause irritation but may cause breakouts for some people; Responsible for a sunscreen’s “white cast”; FDA approved. For more information about titanium dioxide nanoparticles, check here. |
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|
CHEMICAL FILTERS (Organic Sunscreen Filters) |
Avobenzone Other Names: - Butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl-methane - Parsol 1789 - Eusolex 9020 - Escalol 517 - BMBM - BMDBM |
UVA1 | 3% | Absorbs full spectrum UVA rays | Very photounstable; Degrades in light; Oil-soluble; Tends to be unstable when there is octinoxate; Can be stabilized by octocrylene, 4-MBC, Tinosorb, Meroxyl SX, and other UV filters or photo-stabilizers; Not irritating to skin; FDA approved Micro-encapsulated avobenzone could minimize its degradation in sunlight. |
| Tinosorb S Other Names: - Bis-ethyl-hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine - BEMT - Bemotrizinol - Anisotriazine - Escalol S - Tinosorb S Aqua |
UVB, UVA1, UVA2 | 10% | Absorbs both UVA and UVB rays; Helps prevent photo-destabilization of other actives like avobenzone | Very photostable; Oil-soluble; Minimal skin penetration; Not approved by the FDA; Available in Europe, Australia, and other countries. | |
| Tinosorb M Other Names: - Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol - MBBT - Bisoctrizole |
UVB, UVA1, UVA2 | 10% | Absorbs both UVA and UVB rays, reflects and scatters some of them too; Helps stabilize other UV filters (esp octinoxate) | Shows little photodegradation, so it's pretty photostable; Dissolves poorly in both oil and water; Minimally absorbed by skin; Tends to be non-irritating to skin; Produced as microfine particles, similar to nanoparticles in sunscreen; Not available in the US. | |
| Mexoryl SX Other Names: - Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid - TDSA - Ecamsule |
UVA1, UVA2 | 3% | Absorbs UV rays, then releases the UV rays as thermal energy; No skin penetration | Photostable; Water-soluble; Doesn’t protect against the entire UV spectrum, so has to be combined with other filters for good protection; FDA-approved so there are now sunscreens with Mexoryl in the US; Patent held by L'Oréal and its brands. | |
| Mexoryl XL Other Names: - Drometrizole trisiloxane - Ecamsule |
UVA2 | 3% | Absorbs UV rays, then releases the UV rays as thermal energy; No skin penetration | Photostable; Oil-soluble; Used synergistically with Meroxyl SX; Not yet approved by the FDA. | |
| Helioplex | UVB, UVA1 | Absorbs UV rays | Helioplex is basically a name for avobenzone + oxybenzone, a combination that offers broad spectrum protection and stability; Not water proof; Held by Neutrogena; FDA approved | ||
| Octinoxate Other Names: - Octyl methoxy-cinnamate - OMC - Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - EHMC - Escalol 557 - Parsol MCX - Eusolex 2292 - Tinosorb OMC - Uvinul MC80 |
UVB | 7.5% | Absorbs UVB rays | Water-insoluble; Degrades overtime when exposed to sunlight, therefore not the most photostable; Can be stabilized by other UV filters such as Tinosorb M; Absorbed by skin so there are some safety concerns; FDA approved | |
| Octocrylene Other Names: - Uvinul N539T - OCR - Eusolex OCR |
UVB, UVA2 | 10% | Absorbs UV rays | Photostable; Helps stabilize other UV filters; Oil-soluble; Absorbed by skin; In 2006, a study found that octocrylene can increase skin’s photosensitivity to the sun, increasing free radicals. To what extent is unknown, so its use in sunscreen is questionable at the most. More information is needed; FDA approved | |
| Oxybenzone Other Names: - Benzophenone-3 - BP3 - Uvinul M40 - Eusolex 4360 - Escalol 567 |
UVB, UVA2 | 6% | Absorbs UVA rays | Photostable; Helps stabilize other UV filters; Absorbed by skin; In 2006, a study showed that oxybenzone was photo-carcinogenic, or in other words, had a destructive effect on DNA whenever it was exposed to light. Its use in sunscreen is questionable. More information is needed; FDA approved | |
| Octisalate Other Names: - Octyl salicylate - Ethylhexyl salicylate - EHS - Escalol 587 |
UVB | 5% | Absorbs UV rays | Undergoes some degradation in sunlight; Has emollient and water-resistant properties; Oil-soluble; A little greasy; FDA approved | |
| Homosalate Other Names: - Homomethyl salicylate - HMS |
UVB | 15% | Absorbs UV rays | Undergoes some degradation in sunlight; Oil-soluble; Found in many Coppertone sunscreens; FDA approved | |
| Uvinul T 150 Other Names: - Octyltriazone - Ethylhexyl triazone - EHT |
UVB | 5% | Absorbs UV rays | Insoluble in water; Water resistant and long lasting; Not approved by FDA | |
| Cinoxate Other Names: - 2-Ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate - Phiasol - Give Tan - Sundare |
UVB | 3% | Absorbs UV rays | Slightly yellow; Insoluble in water; FDA approved, though no longer commonly used in sunscreens | |
| Aminobenzoic acid Other Names: - PABA |
UVB | 15% | Absorbs UVB rays | One of the first active ingredients in sunscreen; Causes allergies; Causes clothing discoloration; Increased risk of cellular UV damage; Not used in sunscreens anymore; Banned from sale in Europe | |
| Padimate O Other Names: - OD-PABA - Octyldimethyl PABA - Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA - EHDP - Escalol 507 |
UVB | 8% | Absorbs UVB rays | Water-insoluble PABA derivative; Controversial active because after absorbing UVB rays, the active may produce indirect DNA damage | |
| Ensulizole Other Names: - Phenylbenzimiazole sulfonic acid - PBSA - Eusolex 232 - Parsol HS |
UVB, UVA2 | 4% | Absorbs UVB rays | Does not degrade much in sunlight, but more needs to be studied about its stability; Feels lighter on skin; Used in sunscreens with less greasy finish; FDA approved | |
| Dioxybenzone Other Names: - Benzophenone-8 |
UVB, UVA2 | 3% | Absorbs UVB rays and short-wave UVA rays | Derivative of benzophenone; Insoluble in water; FDA approved | |
| Meradimate Other Names: - Menthyl anthranilate |
UVA2 | 5% | Absorbs UVA rays | FDA approved | |
| Sulisobenzone Other Names: - Benzophenone-4 - BP4 - Uvinul MS40 - Escalol 577 |
UVB, UVA2 | 5% | Absorbs UV rays | Photostable; Helps stabilize other UV filters; Absorbed by skin so its safety use in sunscreen is questionable. More information is needed; FDA approved | |
| Trolamine salicylate Other Names: - Triethanolamine salicylate |
UVB | 12% | Absorbs UV rays | Odorless; Absorption into skin in unknown and needs further review; FDA approved | |
| Enzacamene Other Names: - 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor - MBC - 4-MBC - Parsol 5000 - Eusolex 6300 |
UVB | 4% | Absorbs UV rays | May have estrogenic effect when used, but warrants further study; Helps to stabilize avobenzone; Approved for use in Europe and Canada; Not approved by the FDA or allowed in Japan | |
| Bisdisulizole Disodium Other Names: - Neo Heliopan AP - Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate - Bisimidazylate - DPDT |
UVA1 | 10% | Absorbs UV rays | Photostable; Water-soluble; Approved for use in Europe; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Uvinul A Plus Other Names: - Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate - DHHB |
UVA2 | 10% | Absorbs UVA rays | Photostable; Compatible with other UV filters; May provide some protection against free radicals; Approved for use in Europe and Asia | |
| Uvasorb HEB Other Names: - Diethylhexyl butamido triazone - DBT - Iscotrizinol |
UVB, UVA1 | 10% | Absorbs UV rays | Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Parsol SLX Other Names: - Dimethico-diethylbenzal-malonate - Polysilicone-15 - PS15 |
UVB | 10% | Absorbs UVB rays | Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Amiloxate Other Names: - Isoamyl p-Methoxy-cinnamate - IMC - Neo Heliopan E1000 |
UVB | 10% | Absorbs UVB rays | Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA |
*UVA1: 340-400nm
*UVA2: 320-340nm
*UVB: 290-320nm
As you can see from the above chart, there are a lot of sunscreen UV filters. Many of them are not approved for use by the FDA, but some will slowly be approved in the coming years. Europe, Asia, Canada, and Australia seem to be ahead of the US when it comes to sunscreen technology development and approval.
Keep in mind that most of these sunscreen actives are also oil-soluble (only dissolves in oil, not water), which gives sunscreens their water-proof and sweat-proof properties. Therefore, in order to completely remove sunscreen, you have to use an oil, cleansing oil, emollient cleanser, or makeup remover of some kind.
Additionally, aside from physical and chemical UV filters, some inactive ingredients in sunscreen have a photostabilizing effect, which may enhance the function of active UV agents. These stabilizers include:
- Tinogard TL (Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol, BDC)
- Butyloctyl Salicylate (BOS)
- Diethylhexyl Naphthalate (DEHN, Corapan TQ)
- Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DEHSM)
- Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (SolaStay S1, EHMC)
- Polyester-8 (Polycrylene, PC)
Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and polyester-8 are two inactives that help stabilize sunscreens. In particular, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene is thought to stabilize avobenzone more so than octocrylene. Diethylhexyl naphthalate is also thought to help stabilize avobenzone. However, how much these inactive ingredients help improve active ingredients warrants more research.
For explanations for other cosmetic ingredients, check here.
For a list of sunscreen recommendations grouped by their UV filters, check here.
Last updated: September 13, 2012
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